| On the waterfront
!4th in the series: Ian Dowell mourns the loss of a great Quay singer, walker and family man December’s Carols on the Quay charity concert could have been renamed The John Nettleton Show as it was a tribute to the energy and enthusiasm of the much-loved man of music. When illness struck organiser David Dow, John stepped in with a group of volunteers to set up the lighting, audio equipment, staging and mulled wine marquee to ensure the show went ahead. After four hours’ toil, he then dashed home to don the striped trousers, naval jacket, polished buttons and tarred hat of the Exmouth Shanty Men’s ship’s surgeon for the start of the group’s performance and he remained on stage to sing carols with his other love, Budleigh Salterton Male Voice Choir. After the singers had taken their final bow, John returned with his team to start the clearing away process. The result of his marathon efforts ? A crowd of more than 400 enjoyed a memorable night of pre-Christmas entertainment and £750 was raised for the new Exmouth lifeboat station appeal. John loved his music. As the Shanty Men’s artistic director Martin Nicholls explained at a service of thanksgiving for John: “It was in the West Country that his love of music was nurtured and once he found his voice there was no holding him back. He would sing at festivals, folk nights, in the shower, in choirs, in the garden, on stage, on family camping holidays and on the beach. Even on his very last morning, he sang. And audiences, friends and neighbours loved his shining, silver tenor voice.”

John, who died suddenly on Easter Monday at just 58, was also one of a number of Quay residents who walked regularly with the Happy Feet group. And the Friday afternoon singalongs that followed the treks will never be the same again. The lounge bar of Lympstone’s Saddlers Arms was the group’s Royal Albert Hall; the best seats in the house were at two tables in the corner of the room and John was the top of the bill. When his beautiful voice rang out around the pub even the fruit machine addicts and the pool table players looked over with an appreciative smile. John sang of the sea and about life and love, and there was always something to remind everyone of the poor souls of yesteryear who had faced hardship on the land and in the pits or who had been sent away on the deportation ships for stealing food for their starving families. No-nonsense John, a lifelong socialist, was raised in a steel working family in Sheffield and always cared passionately about his fellow workers. In a recent discussion at a Happy feet pub lunch, one man suggested that there was little sign of deprivation in the current credit crunch as many friends and neighbours were off on worldwide vacations and still enjoying fine wines and cuisine. John’s eyes flashed and he snapped: “I can assure you there IS hardship. And you’re damned lucky not to be one of the two million unemployed or among those having their homes repossessed. It’s tough out there for an awful lot of people and you’re obviously not living in the real world.” John knew all about the real world as he had worked for many years in the common law section of the county council and went on to join the Crown Prosecution Service on its formation in 1986. It was a CPS move to the Westcountry that brought the family to Exmouth in 1993. John was a proud family man and the hearts of all Quay residents go out to wife Cath, son Gareth, daughter Joy and grand- children Joshua and Luke. Cath met John at a youth rally and they married in 1975 with with Joy being welcomed into the world in 1979 and Gareth in 1982. Gareth had this to say about his dad at the memorial service: “He was one of the wisest people I knew and I am so thankful I got 27 years’ advice from him. As well as being a great dad, I know he must have been a great friend. Today, people have overflowed onto the lawn outside, which tells me that he was one of those guys that people liked. He was also tremendously loyal and the fact that his three best friends from when he was 15 are sat in the row behind my mum -- because they are still his three best friends – is a telling lesson of what friendship is all about. I will miss him dearly. The Exmouth Quay community, too, will miss John Nettleton. 13th in the series: Clipper Wharf’s Andy Price finds Steph and Eric are flying high in the surf **********************************************************************************************
Things change round here all the time, good and bad. A small piece of change many Quay folk view as a negative is the absence of Spinnakers’ sail training school from Noddy Beach.In the past, you will have seen a handsomely windswept young woman striding along with a gaggle of would-be sailors trying to keep up. You will have seen the same gaggle on the water struggling to do what they were being told in a flotilla of dinghies in the mouth of the estuary. The young woman is Steph Bridge, nee Rowsell, who has been teaching sailing round the docks since her eighteenth year, fifteen years back.With Steph comes Eric Bridge, her partner in life and business. He’s the one who reminds me of a house-trained Viking and their story is one rather touching romance. “We dug Spinnakers out of the sand,” as Steph puts it, until they had 30 dinghies on the water. It was a successful year-round business until the Quay development started and slowly things have become too compromised for the business to continue. The facilities were never ideal, but they had changing rooms and a training room, a launching ramp, car parking and mooring for the safety boats. Gradually these vital elements slipped from their grasp.“In the end it just got too risky, there’s a lot of tide out there. We have been looking for a better business base for fifteen years. We need retail space, training room, office and ideally a café on the side … just the kind of thing which would be so normal in Australia, for instance.”Just as the sail training was looking a bit stalled around 2000, Eric and Steph spotted ‘the next big thing’ for them …kite surfing. They took to it like ducks to water (Sorry, that won’t happen again).On the strength of this new passion, they started a business ‘The Edge’ round the corner from the leisure centre and it’s doing great. “People seem to recognise our passion for the activity and our hands-on style of teaching. Kite surfers are more easily managed in a training situation with smaller numbers.”

Two spectacular studies of Steph while Eric is in action with one of their three sons, Tom
It is probable that new recruits are attracted by the fact that Steph, their teacher, is a double world champion at kite surf course racing and was British champion at surf kite freestyle in 2006. (That’s tricks, jumps and getting hurt!) This year she is doing the international circuit -- with the help of North Sails, her sponsors-- to several events around Europe aiming at retaining her titles at the world championships in San Francisco.Steph and Eric met teaching sailing in Minorca when he was nineteen and she just a year younger. They went off to study, Eric to do geology and Steph physiotherapy, and never lost touch. They finished their degrees in 1991 in the teeth of one of our recurrent recessions and both fell back on their old skills on the water. They now have three young sons to their credit. One day they will go back to the dinghy training they both love, but it will have to wait for the right location. These two quite charming young people have just come back from taking 20 kite surfers to Cape Verdi Island. And for a spot of relaxation, these two hyper actives will be kite surfing from Lands Ends to John O’Groats for the British Heart Foundation, at the end of May. Give them a wave as they whiz by! 12th in the series: Clipper Wharf broadcaster Andy Price talks to the man at the helm of Quay Chandlery ********************************************************************************************
New York has the Statue of Liberty, Rio a huge concrete statue of Jesus … and us ? Well, we have Jerry at Dixon’s Chandlery. There he stands as solid as the Rock of Gibraltar. His only competition the muscled up plaster pirate who stands guard outside his marine emporium (about whom my wife harbours impure thoughts… but that’s another story). Jerry was born 62 years back in Ottery to a schoolteacher mother and a largely absent member of HM Fleet Air Arm. Jerry’s schooldays ended at 15 “I wasn’t bright but I know how to listen.”Life followed a predictable pattern for several decades as a farm worker…it’s unclear how this life choice came about. It might in those days have been something to do with ‘least resistance.’ Then there were lots of farms needing labour. Jerry recalls his first job in Modbury “it took six hours bus-train-bus to get home of a weekend.” There were other farm jobs closer to Ottery and in the seventies Gerry met Janet. She was working as a nanny for an Ottery family and she came from Farway, but the relationship was so strong Jerry thought he’d risk it and propose to a foreigner. They have two boys and 26-year old Elizabeth, now working in the business.This is all pretty bog-standard biographical stuff, but there’s a twist, an epiphany if you like. About 12 years ago Jerry was working as the tractor driver for Clinton Devon Estates and by that time farming was highly mechanised, all the jobs he’d once done on foot were now performed from inside the sealed cab of a tractor. “ I was getting so isolated …hours and hours up and down… really unhappy … I used to weep a lot.” Jerry took himself off to the doctor, only to have confirmed what he already knew, he was seriously depressed. For six months he was ‘on the sick’ wondering where it would all end. Remember all this was little more than a decade ago. One glum day down the garden path comes Rosie Fane Trefusis, the young wife of the heir to the Clinton estates. “What do you want to happen Jerry?” was her basic question and between them they organised MORE WORDS ON NEXT TWO PAGES Jerry’s farewell to the tractor cab.He remains touchingly grateful for the kindly way he was treated by the Clintons.Janet and Jerry decided that a chandlery business might be the answer. They knew they liked to sail and Jerry had worked in an ironmongers years back and liked it.Eventually, their offer was accepted for the old Peter Dixon Chandlery on the pierhead and Jerry, at the age of 52, wrote out the second cheque in his life. How is business now in the plush new building, Jerry?He gives me the central casting Friar Tuck smile. “It turns a small profit… but more than that I like the people who come in here.” There speaks a man who is, at last, truly happy in his work.I think it says more about Jerry than about the wits of your reporter that a second visit was needed to establish Jerry’s surname…It’s Williams.
Jerry ‘like the Rock of Gilbraltar’ outside the entrance to his chandlery at the Quay
11th in the series: Clipper Wharf broadcaster Andy Price turns the tables on Ian Dowell ***********************************************************************On spending time with Ian, one becomes aware that here is a man comfortable at having ‘run a good race.’ Not that there is a hint of complacency, for he is still on a mission. Once the mission was to make his way in the world of newspaper journalism; then it evolved into directing and editing a huge regional daily newspaper, and now it is keeping our little hybrid community on the Quay informed about each other and the place where we live. His life has been a peregrination determined by ability and ambition. It started in Exmouth and it will likely finish here…only not yet! Born in 1940, the son of an Otterton market gardener, with an elder brother and two elder sisters, he soon worked out that his prodigious memory and zest for the written word would suit him to journalism. At the Exmouth Journal, at the age of 18, Ian made the most important relationship of his professional life…one Bill Gorfin, who edited the Journal for 55 years. Gorfin was the first to see that he had a rather special acolyte in Ian who had an unusual skill set, which included print design and energy to get a job done well and quickly. New print technology in the States in the 60s brought the miracle of colour to even small circulation papers and Ian joined Woodrow Wyatt, the controversial Labour MP and broadcaster, who obtained four of the new presses and started colour papers in the UK. At 21, Ian was appointed editor of the Wallingford News, but it was another paper in the Wyatt group that took him to the city where he would spend the next 35 years -- the futuristically named Birmingham Planet.In 1966, Ian joined the Birmingham Post and Mail group, where his energy skill and ambition took him quickly through the ranks, leaving him time for a 15 year spell as editor, before retirement brought him back home. Personal tragedy left its mark on Ian in his mid-forties, when a stroke claimed the life of his first wife, just as his two teenage daughters had flown off to Greece for a first holiday on their own. Ian had to arrange for their immediate return and met them at the airport to break the terrible news. He says: “I will never forget that day. The girls were grief-stricken and I feared for their health, but time has been a healer.” This reporter is not sure he has conveyed just how passionate Ian is about his time as editor of the Birmingham Post and Mail. Can I suggest that you conduct your own experiment? A lot happened in his four decades in the newsroom. If I give you a list of the “hot button” stories he was involved in, you can ask him your own questions…Kennedy’s Assassination; Churchill’s State funeral; Enoch Powell’s ‘rivers of blood’ speech; The Birmingham IRA pub bombings;The Handsworth Riots; The death of Diana…Ask him where the infamous car workers’ leader ‘Red Robbo’ got his nickname?  Who went to press first with the surprise resignation of Margaret Thatcher on a whisper from his political editor? Who revealed that the council had dyed the grass verges green along the route of Bill Clinton’s drive to the Birmingham G8? Who giggles like a schoolboy at a photo of Bill being well and truly snogged by Cherie Blair?    He will also keep your attention with gossip from four Prime Ministers and tragic tales of Aberfan, Dunblane, Hillsbrough, Lockerbie, Hungerford and the Falklands. Campaigns were an important aspect of Ian’s editorship: “it is not our job to simply report the problems… we should try to solve them.” With this in view, Ian’s paper stopped the closure of the city’s general hospital, which has now become the prestigious Princess of Wales Children’s Hospital. It won a reprieve for Rover Cars after getting 25,000 men, women and children to march through the city. And it saved the job of a Bobby threatened with the sack for clipping the ear of an unruly 12 year old after Ian had published ten pages of names and addresses of those wanting justice. Yes, there’s something of the rascal in Ian to this day as those of us who’ve seen him on the dance floor or woofing a crafty ‘all day breakfast’ in the Dockside Café can testify. Pauline will tell you that even for a big fellow he eats for the nation and that if they had the misfortune to be marooned on a desert island it would not be long before he ate her all up! The editorship of a daily newspaper makes huge demands on the ‘after hours’ life of the incumbent: “Although I had four assistant editors, everybody wanted the editor at their event. We were out till midnight four or five nights a week and I was getting up at 5.30 am on most work days.” Ian and Pauline thought their race had been run and it was time to go … not a phased withdrawal, but definite retirement. They spotted the Quay development at its genesis and thought it would do very nicely. Praise Quay News to Ian and he glints down to you through his specs and says: “it’s therapy …and it gives me a mission.”
10th in series: Ian Dowell talks to
the man who runs Harbour News
*************************************
He’s as controversial as some of the Comment columns in the newspapers and magazines that adorn his counter. And many of us on early-morning visits have grown accustomed to his tirades against the latest headliners: professional footballers (“overpaid prima donnas”) child abusers and hooligans (“hang ‘em and flog ‘em”) and newspaper tycoon Rupert Murdoch (“he couldn’t care less about us, so if anyone wants his Sun I make sure they have to bend down to the far corner of the paper shelf and risk ricking their back in the process”). “Actually, a lot of it is tongue in cheek,” admits Jerry Binks (only a handful call him Jeremy). “It’s a fairly boring job, so I like to wind people up and find out what makes them tick. The first time people meet me they often don’t know how to take me, but I’m usually able to get a response.” Visitors to the shop who sometimes hear him tuned in to a Radio 4 discussion, or see him studying an analysis in The Daily Telegraph, might have guessed that he’s had as good an education as many.

The son of a headmistress, he was educated at public school (Lancing College on the South Coast) and achieved ‘A’ level passes in Economics, English, Geography and his star subject, Divinity! He said he had gone to public school because his mother had worked in State education all her life, didn’t think much of it and wanted something better for him. After college, he moved on to the semi-autonomous ECGD (the Export Credit Guarantee Department) and was engaged in economic intelligence, studying balance sheets from South American markets. Despite his shop counter outbursts (“I don’t worry about rude customers, I can match them and outdo them”), Jerry says he is a traditionalist and a conservative with a small and a capital C. “I’m very much pro-monarchy,” he says. “If you want an alternative, just look over at Europe and see the mess they’re in.” And contrary to popular opinion, he says not all politicians are in it for what they can get: “Many started out serving on councils and doing public duty and when the senior ones land a top job just look how they go grey. Blair soon aged and now it’s happening to Brown.”Tragedy has twice struck Jerry. He was only ten years old and a prep school boarder when his mother passed away on Christmas Eve, 1960. Forty years later, his second wife Norma died suddenly from a faulty heart valve as she lay next to him in bed. “It’s very difficult to lose your mum at such an age,” he says. “You can’t exactly grasp the enormity of it and you don’t know how it changes you. My dad was old-fashioned and couldn’t boil an egg, so he quickly got a housekeeper and the first one was a right old dragon.” The death of Norma, who ran a café next to his newsagents, hit him hard in 2000, but he was helped through by his son and daughter from his first marriage (Simon and Vikki), his friends in the Beach pub and by Gillian, whom he married three years ago. Jerry has run the newsagents for 36 years. His father had left Surrey for Exmouth in 1963 and married the landlady of the South Western pub (now The Strand). Two years later they moved to the docks and took over the Putt & Son grocery store and renamed it the Pierhead Stores (it had a flat and was opposite the Beach pub where the Eagle One sales office and part of the Peter Dixon chandlery now stand). Jerry moved down to the stores in 1971, having worked there in his vacations. “I had always liked our holidays in Devon and wanted to get back and I had badgered the old man to let me run it from the age of 15. He said then that if I didn’t get five O levels I could, but I had already taken the exams and got eight.” The business relocated to its present Shelly Court site in 1990. Quay customers have seen more of daughter Vikki on the counter since her university studies ended and she gained a degree in finance and accounts. She’s a pleasant girl, prettier than her dad and much less controversial !
Ninth in a series: Ian Dowell talks to Exmouth Quay’s Mr Cheerful ***********************************
Hairdresser Terry Darville was a master craftsman with the scissors for 48 years in his Exmouth salon ... apart from the day he cut off part of one of his customer’s ear lobes! “I remember the lady well. She was a Miss Wright from Victoria Road,” says Terry, a bubbly character, who is now retired and living in Clipper Wharf. “I suppose I wasn’t concentrating at the time and, whoops, a piece of the lobe suddenly dropped onto the floor. Miss Wright hadn’t actually felt the cut and didn’t know she had lost the lobe until I picked it up and showed her. She was a bit surprised, but took it in good heart.” He added with a twinkle in his eye: “I didn’t give her a price reduction that day, but she was happy enough and continued to come into the salon.”
Terry, who leads the Quay’s volunteer Greenfingers gardeners and is a member of the Happy Feet Friday walking group, is generally considered to be one of the most cheerful residents at the Quay with an incredibly positive outlook on life. Yet he experienced intense heartbreak when his beloved wife Susan died after a two-year illness in 1986, leaving him to bring up little Lucy, aged eight, and Andrew, who was 11. The family were living in a house in Hulham Road at the time and Terry immediately sold the property, together with a second hairdressing business he had acquired, and moved into the flat above the hairdressing salon. “The decision had to be made quickly,” he said. “Susan had been a wonderful wife and mother and without her I had to be there for Lucy and Andrew. They needed to feel secure and I didn’t want them going home from school to an empty house. Although the shop didn’t close until 6pm, and opened on Saturdays, I knew that with them living upstairs I would always be around to deal with anything that cropped up. We all did our best, sharing the shopping and cooking, and teamwork got us through, together with help from some good friends.” Today, Andrew is a plumber, aged 33, and Lucy, 30, a company pension specialist and both live in Exmouth. (Andrew was married five months ago and Lucy has had a boyfriend for seven years).
Terry has never forgotten the dedication of the trained hospice nurses who assisted Susan in her home during her time of need and now devotes much of his retirement to fund-raising for Exmouth and Lympstone Hospiscare. He is a trustee and chairman of the fund-raising committee and last year helped to bring in more than £7,000. (He alone raised almost £2,500 from two Canapes on the Quay events, which were attended by several hundred people at his Clipper Wharf home in 2006 and 2007).

THREE GOOD FRIENDS: Terry with Andrew and Lucy at Andrew’s wedding in 2007.
Terry sets aside time each week to drive patients for treatment to the Royal Devon & Exeter Hospital. “They are not gloomy, even the ones who are seriously ill, ” says Terry, “and you must always give them hope. One old lady, who has now passed on, was always very positive and used to say she was Sophia Loren when I arrived and I would reply ‘Well I’m not James Bond!’” Terry was born in Ruislip, Middlesex, in 1944, and when he was 14 the family came to Exmouth and bought the hairdressing business on the Exeter Road which was to be his base for nearly half a century. Times were tough at the start, with Terry earning just £1 17s 6d a week as a hairdressing apprentice and he boosted his income by washing up in the evenings at a guest house at 101 Victoria Road. He met Susan on the way to a Young Conservatives’ party in Crediton when their cars stopped at a pub in Cowley Bridge. “We were introduced and I asked what she would like to drink,” said Terry, “when she replied ‘Gin and Lime’ I thought ‘She’s expensive.’” Terry has been a lifelong Conservative and for the past two years has stood for the party in the Exmouth Town Council elections. Although he failed to break the grip of the Liberal-Democrats, he said he was not dispirited: “When I stood for the town ward in 2006 I was 141 votes away from winning a seat. In 2007 the gap was 117.” Terry retired from the salon at the end of 2006 and has already travelled widely, which is surprising for a man who didn’t have a holiday for years and thought that people who did were stupid and should stay at work. On a recent 55-day world trip, which included stays in Australia, New Zealand, Singapore, the Cook Islands and San Francisco, he heard he had become a grandfather for the first time. And there’s also happiness at the Quay now that cheerful Mr Greenfingers is back among its award-winning shrubs and flower gardens.
* If you have been moved by this article and would like to stage a coffee morning or similar event for Hospiscare, please give Terry a call (224630). He will be delighted.
Eighth in the series: Ian Dowell talks to Harbourmaster Keith Graham
**************************
The dapper man with a neatly-trimmed beard and a navy blue Breton cap who controls Exmouth Marina has learned to his cost that it pays to heed the fishermen’s tales. When Keith Graham’s 32ft trawler The Darter sank at the entrance to the docks, and was returned to service after a six-week repair, a fisherman friend warned: You should sell her. Once she’s been down, she will want to go again. “I should have listened to Tommy Litton”, said Keith “because two years later she was back on the bottom".

Keith had planned to earn £1,000 a week from his newly- purchased trawler in 1978 and moored her at the dock entrance for an early-morning getaway, but the trawler jammed against the wall in stormy weather and went down. Two years later, Robin Carter took over the docks company and chartered The Darter to help pump mud from the dock basin. She was tied up alongside a 1,000 ton freight ship, which was taking on water ballast, and when the huge vessel’s tanks overflowed, Keith’s trawler was swamped and sank again. Fortunately, there have been more ups than downs in the life of the Exmouth-born fisherman’s son. Keith leftschool at 15 to study at the Navigation College in Lowestoft before starting as a deck-hand on North Sea trawlers, helping out on his father’s fishing boat, skippering the Starcross ferry and working on a coastal sand dredger. He has also earned a living as a roofer and a hod carrier on a building site. Keith’s work with the docks company began in 1980 when he did a variety of jobs, including unloading ships, moving lorries around the complex and standing in for the dockmaster. He took on his current role in 1993 and although 65 next September has no thoughts of retirement. “I love being around boats and the water,” said Keith “It doesn’t feel like I’m getting up to go to work in the morning, and I’d probably come here anyway.”
There was joy and heartbreak in Keith’s 18 years as an Exmouth lifeboatman, 14 of which he was coxswain. He still treasures the emotional letter he received from the mother of two girls who were saved by Keith and his crew when their uncle’s speedboat sank off the Pole Sands. “They had no lifejackets and when we arrived one girl was unconscious and the other splashing about frantically,” said Keith, “the mother’s letter was so moving that I couldn’t sit and read it out for a bit. That sort of thing made the lifeboat work so rewarding and worthwhile.” There was heartbreak the day a man and his wife died after their catamaran capsized off Sidmouth (the woman drowned and her husband died in hospital). “The sea was very rough and the old City of Birmingham lifeboat could only do 9 knots flat out and by the time we got near the scene the helicopters had taken over and we were sent home, but it is very sad for lifeboatmen to know that a rescue mission has failed and lives have been lost.” Keith was involved in the naming ceremonies of two Exmouth lifeboats, the Caroline Finch and Forward, Birmingham. The Duke and Duchess of Kent attended the Caroline Finch ceremony, in July 1984, and the Duchess was barefoot as she stepped on to the vessel. “We knew the Royals would come aboard for a trip and we had borrowed a gangplank from a ship, which was steep,” he said “The Duchess, who was wearing heels, took one look and immediately removed her shoes and called to her lady-in-waiting to do the same. It caused a lot of amusement.” Keith and wife Pat have been together for 40 years. Pat was head teacher at Clyst Honiton Primary School and after taking early retirement embarked on a successful role as a Liberal Democrat councillor at town and district level. She has also been instrumental in leading the Exmouth in Bloom organisation to a number of trophies. They have three sons, Dave, Mike and Matthew, and a daughter, Debbie, who has won the admiration of all Exmothians for her courage following a diving accident in 1995. She was a student at Winchester University and worked at a Weymouth holiday camp at weekends to raise money for an exchange trip to America. “They were partying in the pool after work,” said Keith “but as she dived in and swam underwater her head hit the pool wall and she severed her spinal cord.” Debbie works regularly in the family’s boat sales office on the Pierhead and is well-known to Quay residents. “Her humour has helped her through,” said Keith, “and she can do a lot of things that the medical people said she wouldn’t be able to do.”
Seventh in a series: Ian Dowell talks to the Quay’s shellfish entrepreneur *****************************Business is booming for the Exmouth Mussel Man whose produce appears regularly on the dining tables of some of London’s finest restaurants. The success of the Exmouth Mussels company, which Myles Blood Smyth set up five years ago, operating from three units in the Pierhead, is a rare good news story in the troubled fishing waters of the South West. “Our turnover has doubled every year since we started,” said Mr Blood Smyth, aged 50, who has spent all his life as a commercial fisherman, specialising in shellfish. “We work hard to provide completely clean mussels, free of barnacles, with a high meat content and distinctive flavour. We want the mussels to be ready for the chefs to use as soon as they receive them and any broken or disfigured shells are removed before dispatch. The mussels go through a purification process for 42 hours and, to maximise shelf life, we aim to distribute them to wholesalers on the day they are taken out of the tanks. Each bag is capped with crushed ice to help keep the mussels cold and wet. If they dry, or are dried by refrigerated air, they will gradually weaken, open and start to die.”  Mr Blood Smyth is joined by his wife and five other full-time staff in the business, 80 per cent of which is concentrated on mussels and the remainder on cockles, clams and oysters. He said the Exe is an excellent river for shellfish growth with its clean B grade waters, which are tested monthly by East Devon District Council. It takes 18 months for mussel seed to reach maturity and that is where the Pierhead team give nature a helping hand. Dedicated vessels go as far as Berry Head to source mussel seed and growing beds are laid on various parts of the river to ensure there is regular stock. “Ninety per cent of mussel seed is destroyed in the autumn storms or taken by predator star fish and we try to find it before the bad weather arrives,” he said. The company has made a major investment in boats and specialised equipment and many Quay residents will have noticed a strange flat-bottomed barge at work. This can fish among the moorings by pumping water down to the seabed and it simply blows the mussels onto an elevator. “The mussels and clams are teased from their muddy beds without any impact on the stone layers beneath,” said Mr Blood Smyth. “Minimal disturbance and constant re-seeding allows the high density of fish, crabs and sponges that build up on what resemble ‘underwater rainforests’ to be maintained.” There is also a boat capable of laying 20 tons of seed per trip and a barge permanently moored in the Bight for cleaning the mussels as soon as they are raised. Alongside the purification tanks is a £10,000 French-made machine, which polishes the mussels before they are hand-packed for delivery. Customers are supplied throughout the year, except when the mussels are spawning in the spring and the company closes for two weeks. Major wholesalers in Brixham and Bristol send much of the Exe produce to outlets all over the country, including top London restaurants and one with a Royal warrant. There are also exports to Holland. The company’s progress was marked recently when it won two Gold Medals in the prestigious “Taste of the West” awards, which reflect exceptional local quality. Mr Blood Smyth is also proud of the 9ft long aquarium alongside his processing plant. It contains fish from around the South West coast, all caught by local fishermen, and includes bass, black bream, octopus, scorpion fish, lobster, crab, eel, prawns and “everything you would find in a rock pool.” He said residents were welcome to come and see it.
The Sixth in a series: Ian Dowell talks to the man at the helm of the Beach public house (Summer 2007)
***********************************The management of the Quay’s famous old Beach pub has become a truly family affair with all five of the Paveys helping to run the business. Mark, affectionately known locally as “Hank,” took over the tenancy in November 2006 on the retirement of Dave Russell. He is assisted by his wife Deb and son Daniel, who is the chef, and daughters Leigh and Georgina. Leigh runs the bar with help from Georgina, who also stages contemporary dance classes in the Beachcomber Bar. “Everyone has got behind us and we feel we made a lot of progress in our first six months,” said Hank, who is 48. “Some of the pubs in the town have big screens, flashing lights and loud music, but we just want a good, old-fashioned atmosphere where locals and tourists can relax.” Many Quay residents have commented on the Beach’s value-for-money meals, which pleases Hank, who has spent a lifetime in catering and takes over from his son in the kitchen when necessary. Hank served with the Royal Marines as a chef for 24 years, although he said he didn’t spend all his time creating culinary delights as he could often be called in to do a soldier’s job. “I had done the normal training programme, finishing at Lympstone, and I would join in on exercises whenever numbers were down.” He married Deb, his schooldays sweetheart, in 1977, and they celebrated their 30th wedding anniversary in 2007. They now live above the premises. After leaving the Marines in 1999, he worked as a chef at the Maltsters Inn, Woodbury, then at a rehabilitation centre in Okehampton and finally at Exeter University before becoming bar manager at the Beach two years ago. Away from the beer and the bolognaise, he has run a trip for 16 regulars to the rugby at Twickenham and last month took another 50 for a night at Cornish comedian Jethro’s complex. Hank says they want to build on the pub’s family atmosphere, which should be easy for the five friendly Paveys!
The 5th in a series: Ian Dowell talks to the head of Stuart Line Cruises (Spring 2007) *****************************
Exmouth’s most successful boating entrepreneur was told at the outset of his working life to stay away from the water and get a proper job – by his mother! Fortunately, he ignored her advice and his cruise line is now one of the busiest in the South West.Ian Stuart, aged 42, explains: “Dad had run river cruises for up to 50 people in a small open boat during the summer and mum was convinced that there wasn’t enough business about to keep going in the winter months. She was right at the time, of course, as there were no winter boat trips up to 10 years ago, but I was determined to change things.”  Ian and his wife Philippa got together with the hotels and offered boat trips for their winter guests and business snowballed. Recently, as in previous years, they have run 30 trips for bird watchers, with all 120 places booked solidly in advance for each one, and in November they took packed boats to the coastal firework displays. “December is a very busy month with children’s Santa trips, office party cruises and sit-down meals,” he said, “last year we had 10 days of sit-down Christmas meals and diners came from as far as Yeovil, Cornwall and Bournemouth.” It was much more of a gamble 24 years ago when Ian and Philippa raised £2,500 to buy their first boat, but their energy and drive paid off and three years ago they were able to invest £320,000 on a new vessel appropriately names “Pride of Exmouth.” The couple also made sure they were in the right place at the right time when the Jurassic Coast initiative was set up. Ian said, “It was established that the Weymouth area was good for walkers, Lyme Regis and Charmouth for fossils and the Exmouth end for the coastal trips and we were ready with our new boat. Now these trips probably make up half of our summer business.” He said the increase in winter trade had also enabled him to employ his staff all year round and not rely on seasonal labour as is the case with many boat operators around the coast. He has two other qualified skippers, with Philippa the main office administrator, and he has recently added a new 12-seater rib to augment “Pride of Exmouth” and the old faithful “Tudor Rose,” which is currently getting a facelift in Camperdown Creek. “We bought the rib with the intention of running a fast ferry service from Sidmouth and Seaton,” he explained, “but we are using it more for private party trips and we recently took a group to the Cats musical in Torquay. ”Looking ahead, Ian has a ready made stand-in when the time comes for him to take it easier …13-year-old son Jake, who has already established himself as a confident seaman. And Ian, unlike his mum all those years ago, will encourage him!
Fourth in a series: Ian Dowell talks to an amazing Clipper Wharf resident (Winter 2007) *********************************
Clipper Wharf resident Jerzy Raciborski’s parents were married in the most dramatic circumstances. His father, Franciszek, a former Polish cavalry captain with a dashing reputation, fell in love with a beautiful Countess. When her parents declined his request for her hand in marriage, he mounted his horse, whisked the young woman up to his saddle and rode off to a little village church where the ceremony was performed. Franciszek took his new wife to his 400-acre farm in the south-east of Poland, where he bred Arab horses, and it was here that Jerzy (English translation: George) was born in 1932. But their fairytale lifestyle was soon to end.  As the Germans invaded on the 1st September, 1939, his father, although 46 and past the call-up age, immediately rode off on horseback to join his old regiment, leaving his wife and three children on the farm. They were never to see him again and the years that followed were to be perilous for the young family. When the Russians invaded, 17 days later, they were thrown out of their home and told to take only what they could carry, and although they moved to a nearby town, the Russian Secret police located them and deported them to Siberia. The three-week trip in a cattle truck that followed was one of several hazardous journeys George and his brother and sister had to endure. Twice they thought they had lost their devoted mother. “On a rail journey out of Siberia, we had only stale bread for food and the train stopped to allow people to get hot water, but it moved off with mother stranded on the station,” recalls George. “We later discovered she had run after the train and jumped on at the back.” In another incident, in Tashkent, an attempt was made to steal their suitcase and, after a fracas, their mother was taken away by police. “We thought we had lost her again,” said George, “but she got back to us.”
In Siberia they had been taken to collective farms and on one of these they lived in a mud hut with little food and had to burn cow’s dung for warmth. The turning point came when Germany attacked Russia in 1941 and as soon as the Russians became Western allies there was an amnesty for Poles in the country. After a long and difficult journey, the family eventually reached a refugee camp in Tehran, where their mother joined the Polish Army and George attended army cadet school. They moved with the school to Palestine and came to Britain when the Arab conflict flared. News also reached them that father Franciszek had died in Budapest.In Britain, George passed his A-levels and studied engineering in Plymouth, where he met Dorothy and they married in 1956. She joined him on an eight-year contract in South Africa for a British company, and on their return he went to an engineering company in London, retiring as a director in 1992. “Looking back, I think I was so young I accepted everything that happened as the norm,” said George, speaking in his Quay home where he enjoys walking the docks and playing bridge. They have two daughters and two sons, one of whom was a canoeist in the 1984 and 1988 Olympics.
Third in a series: Ian Dowell talks to a man bowing out at the Beach (Autumn 2006) *******************************
Dave Russell reflected on his 10 years at the helm of the Quay’s popular Beach pub and said: “I’m going to miss this place, because really I’m just one of the lads.” There are no airs and graces about Dave, who at the tender age of 55, surprised his regulars when he announced he was turning his back on the licensing trade after more than 15 years and retiring to “chill out.” He explained: “I’m not one of those publicans who tries to lord it over everyone. We’re just an old-fashioned pub where people can come in for a quiet drink and a chat with the locals without the distraction of video games or loud music and I have always felt comfortable to be part of it.”
His wife Sheila, to whom he has been married for 35 years, has backed him all the way and they are looking forward to a break from long pub hours and the chance to travel in a newly-acquired motor home. “Don’t get me wrong,” said Dave, “We’ve really enjoyed our time at the Beach (before that they ran the Kings Arms in Kingsteignton), but it’s a slog and you can never really turn your back on it. Now, for the first time, we will also have some public holidays to ourselves, although, having said that, lunchtime at Christmas Day in the pub has been one of my favourite times of the year.” Dave and Sheila’s first destination in the new motor home will be Cyprus, where their son and his family live, and after that they will take trips from Exmouth to anywhere that takes their fancy or “until the money runs out.” Although they lived on the premises during their years at the Beach, it was a tenancy, and they invested in a bungalow in the town.
Dave made a major career change earlier in his life when he entered the licensing trade after 14 years in management accounts with Smiths Industries, a precision fan and air conditioning firm. On October 10, 2006, that career will end when he hands over the tenancy to his pub manager Mark Pavey, known to the locals as Hank, whose son Daniel is the chef and daughter Leigh helps on the bar. Regulars will wish Hank well, but they will miss the down-to-earth Dave who, when asked if Exmouth’s current RNLI conxswain continued the tradition of drinking with his colleagues in the Beach’s famous Lifeboat Bar, replied: “No, he goes to the Grove.”
Second in a series: Ian Dowell talks to the Quay’s fascinating Don Lopez (Summer 2006) *********************************
The incredible life of the man with the longest name at Exmouth Quay is the subject of a new book* Don Emilio Julian Leandro Guillermo Mateas Lopez Lopez Echeverria de Peralta, who lives in Ropewalk House, was born to a wealthy Spanish family, but found himself abandoned in an orphanage at the age of two when his father died suddenly. Although he was rescued and cared for by an uncle, the bloody Spanish |Civil War later put his life in danger and, at the age of 10, he was forced to flee on a hazardous trip to England. Here, his topsy-turvy world continued when he narrowly survived the German bombing raids on Plymouth, but the enterprising young man, who had sold home-made wireless sets using copper wire and old toilet roll tubes to grateful school chums, was to establish himself as an inventor. He took out 47 patents and manufactured a string of popular products, including luggage such as Antler, Kingfisher, Revellation and Crown.  “It was all down to determination,” said the softly-spoken Don Lopez, who in 1951 married Helena, an Exeter girl. Later, he returned to his homeland with his wife and three daughters for a reunion with the friends and family he had left 27 years before. “It was emotional, but I had no desire to stay,” he says, “I wanted to return to dear old England, my new home, where I had found happiness.” Among a host of manufacturing successes, Don is particularly proud of the Alternating Pressure Mattress, which he designed and patented and which is known in the NHS as a “ripple bed.” He built a new factory for its manufacture. He also produced PVC products, luxury lighting, high quality garden furniture and an array of products for Marks & Spencer, Thermos, Burberry, Aquasutum and Zandra Rhodes. He manufactured the first “on the hanger” travel packs, which were made famous by Selfridges, and considered by Shell and BP to be essential for executives, as they could be taken into aircraft cabins and cut out lengthy waits in the baggage halls. Don was asked to modify several packs for Prince Philip to enable him to travel with the uniform for each of the Armed Forces. The great entrepreneur, who is 80, retired in 1991 and says,” Regrettably, none of my daughters wanted to take over the business, with 5 factories and several hundred workers, so I sold up.” *Don Emilio by Donald E. Lopez (Athena Press at £8.99) ISBN 1 84401 518 1 First in a series: Ian Dowell talks to the owner of the Pierhead fish shop (Spring 2006) *****************************
Mark Quilter is the shopkeeper whose daily deliveries arrive by sea. He runs Exmouth Fisheries on the Pierhead and says that 75 per cent of the fish he sells is caught locally from his own boat ‘Prosperity’ and five other trawlers. He also supplies fish merchants and 15 hotels and restaurants in the area, with the new Quay restaurant ‘Olivants’ set to join the list shortly. “Crabs are one of our specialities,” he says, “we catch them, boil them and dress them on the premises and they’re always in great demand.” Mark, who is aged 34 and married with two children, lives in Hulham Road, Exmouth, and has worked at the Pierhead shop since he was 13. “We own the building,” said Mark, “thanks to the foresight of mum and dad, who bought it from the old Exmouth Dock Company 40 years ago. Sadly, his father Doug passed away in 2005 and his mother, Annette, who is often seen helping out in the shop, will be retiring soon. The shop, which is open seven days a week from 8.30am to 5pm in winter and for longer periods in summer, has recently had a major refurbishment behind the scenes in the fish preparation area and the front of the premises will now get a facelift. Mark said the property development at Exmouth Quay had boosted his trade. “We are always busy in the summer,” he said, “but I have a number of customers living at the Quay who have definitely made a difference to my winter business.” Does he buy from the small angler ? “No, I’m not allowed to,” he explained, “DEFRA (the Department for the Environment, Food and Rural Affairs) insist that we must have traceability of the fish we sell, which rules out individuals.” |